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Do I need to re-zero with a new suppressor?

I’ve got a CZ 457 Royal, and she is the best rifle I have ever owned. I’ve got a Hushpro RF2 silencer on her, and she shoots a 1/2" group at 50m. However… I bought an identical silencer and put it on the same rifle, and she now shoots high and right and a little bit scattered, although the scattering could be me. Do I need to re-zero with a new silencer, or should it shoot in the same place?

I have shot a DPT out on a 223 and brought a replacement this time with the stainless first baffle. I expected a poi change but was suprised when there wasnt.
.22s are funny beasts they don’t like being clean and shoot best"fouled" maybe the supressors the same.
If a few more rounds don’t settle it down, it’s not too big a job to rezero and a good excuse for a bit more shooting.

Thanks for the input Mark, the reason I’m asking is that difference between the two is huge, about 20MOA in elevation and 15 MOA to the right. To my mind, for two supposedly identical silencers this seems a lot of difference.

At 50 metres keeping the mixed units that’s 10 inches high and 7.5 right that’s a pretty enormous shift.
I suggest a few groups unsupressed, then some with the original supressor, then with the new one, also check the target are the holes perfectly round. Fire a couple onto paper at 2 to 3 metres and look for tiny extra holes in the paper the bullets may just be skimming the baffles or its off centre,
If all that fails to id the issue take it back and get a replacement

Hiya Mark, that would be about right, I’m zeroing at 12m and the rounds were going 3inches high and about 1.5 to 2 inches right. I’ve been in contact with the hush pro people and they said: “I could not see anything out of place with it, the bore was a little on the lower end of my tolerance so I increased it gave it a clean and sent it back.” I was willing to believe it was me, but with my old silencer, also a hushpro rf2, I’m getting 1/2" groups right in the middle. I think I might go for a higher spec silencer, and chalk this up to experience. Thanks for all your help.


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that is a huge difference…as said above,try it again in all three modes,make sure suppressor is tight…poke your cleaning rod through and see it it comes out end of suppressor squarely in middle…baffle strikes should be easy to see. 22 suppressors arent overly complicated things,the old manders which is still one of the quietest around is simple springs n washers…
you dont need high spec to make it work…it just needs to work.

I agree totally Duck, I can’t see any baffle strikes, but I’ll try a cleaning rod. The old one I’ve got works fine but having to soak it in kerosene and then hanging it out to dry is a pain, which is why I bought an identical one. Turns out it’s not so identical though.

I’m curious why do you soak the supressor in kero

It’s a Hushpro RF2 suppressor, and I couldn’t see a way to take it apart for cleaning, so I called the makers, and I was told that I should never strip the suppressor down, just soak it in kero, and make sure it was thoroughly dry before I put it back on my rifle.

I cleaned my manders eggzachary once in 15 years,if it needed it or not… rimfire suppressors SHOULDNT need cleaning…

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I’m new to this suppressor thing, I’ve only fired service rifle before, and silencing one of those isn’t possible. As the forces philosophy goes, if it’s on your rifle, then it gets cleaned.


My original model Parker-Hale steel rimfire silencers get full of gunge and powder granules after a years heavy use, luckily they are easy to take apart and soak in kero and thinners, even come with a rod to stack the baffles on for reassembly
Come to think of it the Manders one I had didn’t foul much at all, different design must have blown the shit out rather than retained it ??

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Welcome to the forum Shady!!! :slight_smile:

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Hi yes you do all suppressors are different and will often shoot to different POI usually they are within 1-2 inches at 100M regards alan